Eastern Anatolia & Ancient Kingdoms
5 Nights | 3 Mardin · 1 Van · 1 Kars — honey-colored limestone, Akdamar Island and the haunting ruins of Ani.
Carved into a rust-red gorge in southeastern Türkiye, Dara was a Byzantine fortress city guarding ancient trade routes. Its rock-cut tombs and massive walls still stand.
Also part of Upper Mesopotamia
South of Mardin, where the rolling steppe meets a deep ravine, the ancient city of Dara clings to the rock in an astonishing state of preservation. For centuries this was one of the most formidable fortifications on the Roman and Byzantine eastern frontier, controlling the passage between Mesopotamia and Anatolia. Today, the ruins emerge from the ochre earth like the bones of something once very much alive.
The city's position is its first statement. Built on a plateau above a steep-sided gorge, Dara had natural defences on three sides and a network of walls and towers on the fourth. You approach through a landscape of dry riverbeds and terraced fields, the land hardening to rock as you near the site. The sound changes too — wind moves differently here, catching the gorge's lip and sending small eddies across the ruins.
The fortifications that survive are substantial: sections of Byzantine walling in the local limestone, square towers at intervals along the ridge, and the ruins of a large cistern system that once stored water for the garrison. Walking the circuit, you can trace where the city stood on its promontory, looking out over a landscape that has changed little since merchants and soldiers moved through on the roads below.
The most dramatic features are the rock-cut tombs carved into the gorge walls below the city. These elaborate burial chambers — with their façades of columns and entablatures hewn directly from the stone — give the site a peculiar grandeur. The scale is surprising: what looks from a distance like decorative architectural detailing is carved deep into the cliff face, a necropolis on a monumental scale.
The rock is pale limestone that weathers to warm grey, and the tomb entrances catch the afternoon light in a way that makes them glow against the darker gorge below. Climbing down for a closer view, you pass through a landscape of small terraces, wild herbs, and the accumulated silence of a place that has been a burial ground for nearly two thousand years.
Dara's significance came from its position on overland trade routes linking the Mediterranean coast with the Persian Gulf and the east. The city flourished under Roman and Byzantine rule precisely because it could hold these routes — and tax them. The ruins you walk through today were built and rebuilt over centuries, each era leaving its mark in the stone.
What strikes visitors now is the quiet. Standing among the ruins with the gorge below and wide sky above, the scale of the place becomes clear: this was a city of real importance, and its silence now is profound. The walls, the tombs, the cisterns — all speak of a community that built to last, unaware that what they were building to last was a ruin worth walking through today.
5 Nights | 3 Mardin · 1 Van · 1 Kars — honey-colored limestone, Akdamar Island and the haunting ruins of Ani.
8 Nights | 1 Gaziantep · 1 Şanlıurfa · 1 Diyarbakır · 3 Mardin · 1 Van · 1 Kars — Göbeklitepe, Mardin and the haunting ruins of Ani.
11 Nights | 3 Cappadocia · 1 Gaziantep · 1 Şanlıurfa · 1 Diyarbakır · 3 Mardin · 1 Van · 1 Kars — fairy chimneys, Mount Nemrut, Mardin and the haunting ruins of Ani.
3 Nights Istanbul | 3 Nights Cappadocia | 1 Night Gaziantep | 1 Night Sanliurfa | 1 Night Diyarbakir | 3 Nights Mardin | 1 Night Van | 1 Night Kars
Our groups are capped at eight travellers, which is about a third of what the industry calls a small group. Eight people share one vehicle, one table at dinner and one guide's attention, and the day can change on the road without anybody being left behind. If you are looking for a coach, a fixed script and a microphone, this is not that.
Most days involve real walking, often on ground that was laid two thousand years before walking shoes: marble worn smooth, cobbles, uneven steps and long site paths with little shade. Bring shoes you can spend a morning in.
Some days move between regions and are largely a drive, with stops along the way. Summers are hot — well over 35°C inland — and winters are colder than most people expect, so layers, a hat and sunscreen earn their place in the bag whatever the month.
How demanding a particular trip is, is written on the trip itself: the physical rating in the header, and the day-by-day itinerary above.
Trip prices are per person, sharing a twin room. Each traveller picks their own room while booking, so a party can mix the three:
Solo travellers are welcome on every departure, and most of our groups have one or two aboard.
The hotels named in an itinerary are a guideline rather than a guarantee. Where one is full, or has dropped below the standard we booked it for, we substitute a property of a similar standard in the same area — we would rather change the hotel than the trip.
Check-in is usually mid-afternoon. If you arrive early we will ask for the room, but no hotel can promise one before its own check-in time; luggage can normally be left at reception in the meantime. If you want the room from the night before, ask us and we will add the extra night to your booking.
Entry requirements depend on your nationality and change without much notice, so the only reliable source is the official one: the government of the country you are travelling to, and your own foreign ministry's travel advice. Check both before you book a flight.
Many countries ask for a passport valid for at least six months beyond your travel dates, and for blank pages. It is worth looking at yours now rather than at the airport.
We ask every traveller to carry travel insurance covering medical treatment and repatriation, and we would strongly encourage cover for cancellation and for your luggage as well.
Once a departure is on the calendar it runs. We do not cancel a trip for want of a minimum number of bookings, so a booked date is one you can plan flights and leave around.
What can move is the shape of a day. Museums and archaeological sites change their hours, roads close, weather turns, a local holiday lands in the middle of the week. Where that happens your guide reorders the day, or swaps a stop for one of the same weight, and tells you why. Changes to a booked itinerary are covered by our Booking Terms & Conditions.